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Another Small Town

- Jamie - Thursday, May 12th, 2005 : goo

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And so I find myself, once again living in the country. In an historic market town in the heart of the Wolds. Today just as it was in Roman times, is one of those nowhere-in-particular places. The Romans built the fort of Banovallum here sometime time during the last quarter of the third century. The exact purpose of the fort is a matter of contention as it lay neither on nor near to any major roman roads of its time. Despite its remote location, the walls were an outstanding 12 feet thick, and are estimated to have been up to 20 feet in height. They built that baby to last.

image 1716
Modern day River Waring

The Romans hauled-ass back to some centuries later, heralding the beginning of the dark ages. The population of the settlement more than halved owing to the famine and pestilence that ensued. The Anglo-Saxons came to name this place Hyrnecastre, meaning “fort in a corner”. The corner being the junction of the and , which was at one point navigable all the way to . The Bain was later superceded by the Horncastle which was in turn made redundant by the introduction of the railways; finally throwing in the towel in 1898. There is currently talk of reviving the old canal in an effort to attract tourism.

image 1720

image 1723

It is from the name Hyrnecastre that the modern-day name of is derived. Little of the original roman walls remain as they were a ready source of building materials during the centuries following roman withdrawal. St. Mary’s is a good example of this architectural cannibalism. Before you ask, I have no idea where the surviving sections of roman wall reside. I’m curious to find out though.

image 1717

image 1721

The population of for the majority of its existence has hovered around 100 souls or less. Wealth and prosperity only really began to return during Tudor times. Then came the industrial revolution which forcibly nudged the numbers towards their current plateau of around 5,000 inhabitants. In relative terms however Horncastle is no larger than it has ever been.

image 1722

Horncastle proudly holds the title of ‘Best Antiques Town 2001’. Whether this title is national or regional in scope I neither know nor care to, but every other business premises in this town houses an antiques dealer. There are countless other quaint little shoppes, bakeries, tea rooms and other curiosities to be found amongst the more mundane high street chains. How any of these businesses manage to turn enough profit to stay afloat though, is to my mind the biggest curiosity of all. Horncastle has made virtually no mark on the history of this country, though there was once a Horse Fair held in the town which is said to have attracted buyers from all over Europe. The fair, first chartered in the early thirteenth century reached its historical peak in the mid 1800s. It was, at that time, reputed to be the world’s largest horse fair, and it was during one years abandoned merriment that a farmer made an unusual disappearance. His skeletal remains lay undiscovered; sealed between two walls, until their accidental discovery some thirty years later. Who had killed him and why are questions that will probably never be answered. The local trade in horses moved into drastic decline along with the , around the turn of the last century. By the end of the fat lady was beginning to sing. The last horse fair to be held in the town was in 1948; a mere shadow of its former grandeur.

image 1718
Wharf Road

And you’re no doubt wondering by now how I come to posses all these historically obscure factoids about my adopted hometown. Learning about stuff is my new hobby. That and writing; and photography. Perhaps it has something to do with working in a school, or perhaps I’m just making up for lost time. In either case, I am nonetheless discovering that I am neither as dim-witted nor as intellectual as I had previously been led (mostly by myself) to believe.

image 1719

I’m starting lately to examine and analyze things to a ridiculous extent. I have an acute interest in the most pedantic of matters. Recently I’ve decided that harbours the same small-town attitudes and narrow-mindedness as does Northern Ireland. I have openly been deemed gay for wearing a lilac shirt and tie combo, in much the same way as I was deemed gay in for having the audacity to sport a wooly hat in public. Perhaps I am gay. That said; there is not quite the same level of social retrospection here as in Northern Ireland. On such a densely populated island as this, you’re never far from an urban centre. There is precious little wilderness here, and one is never far from at least a modicum of liberal common sense. I can if I wish, purchase a tasty prepared by a man with a loose grasp of both the English language and basic food hygiene; And that’s just the way I like it.

This article has been viewed 5333 times in the last 4 years


Peter: 12th May 2005 - 13:13 GMT

mmmm, kebabys. i love the photos, man. series like this are the perfect show-and-tell entry to show your town to all of us. thanks man :)

Anonymous (CPE-65-30-92-77.kc.res.rr.com): 12th May 2005 - 14:21 GMT

Nice! Very nice and thank you for sharing this. What a pleasure!

elaine: 12th May 2005 - 17:18 GMT

my friend alistair often gets the gay thing from his little charges - 16-19 year olds in poplar (E3) so it's not exclusively a country thing. he tells me also that they seem to not know the difference between someone being gay or italian/not from poplar/him in general. they are a bit narrow, and they wouldn't know what to say if you really were gay.
glad you got around to the posting - you really do live in the sticks, don't you? is it a bit posh though?
ps. i got roman wall here of course. the word graft comes from those days when the romans got the indigenous casuals to build a wall to keep themselves out of londinium

Jamie: 13th May 2005 - 16:04 GMT

Yes i do. I've painted a deliberately quaint picture of Horncastle with these photos. It's not all gerogian and tudor, but it has to be said that the town centre is remarkably well preserved. There is an ecelectic mix of architecture from the past several hundred years. Take away all the the 20th century addons and i'm sure it looks much the same as i did all those hundreds of years ago. Of course, the town has since sprawled (if only a little) and the historic inner core is ringed with crummy housing estates; which is where you'll find me of an evening.

Peter: 13th May 2005 - 16:05 GMT

ooh i wanna see the seedy underside of horncastle now, yo.

Jamie: 13th May 2005 - 16:07 GMT

here's a taster a crumbling housing association estate. Linx homes yay! It takes THREE blokes in vans to fix a dripping tap. Awesome.

elaine: 13th May 2005 - 16:31 GMT

georgian is a good thing, i am partial to it. when ill i watched a 'reality' show which was set in georgian times allegedly, at a house party, and remarked to my brother that it turns out that separate puddings were a victorian invention, and the georgians had sweet and savoury on one plate. his immediate riposte was that that is why americans eat as they do, because they are still georgians!

Jamie: ... and thats why i eat my peas with honey

Anonymous : isso é uma BOSTA

danny: 23rd Oct 2005 - 13:12 GMT

i like this site so what if someone is gay i work in horncastle and i am gay its just a shame that there isnt any gay activeity as there is in other towns and city i think its a shame we have all this history and building to show the gay poeple but you have no bars clubs saunas for them to spend thier big pink pound trust me if i had the money i would home in on the gay market they are dying for somthing in this part of the county and yet nobody is prepared to cater for them SHAME SHAME SHAME

Jamie: 23rd Oct 2005 - 16:13 GMT

Dude, take some photos of form you uniquely gay perspective. Also: Bannovallum Mens Only Club would be interesting. Maybe it could take up residence in that building they're refurbishing on bridge street. Lincolnshire's Premier Gay Venue, as paid for by the European Heritage Commission.. or some shit. That would kickass. Although - i'm close to certain the parish council would have their reservations.

Michelle : 10th Mar 2006 - 20:55 GMT

The Roman wall is in the library - you obviously do not research too thoroughly. I have never been to Horncastle but I thought everyone knew about the wall!

Jamie: smartypants

Jamie: 24th Jun 2006 - 20:48 GMT

i know where there is another piece of wall. photos to follow

t@ngent: 28th Jun 2006 - 15:35 GMT

image 13111

So the remaining wall of the fortress of Banovallum really does run through the !

Peter: 28th Jun 2006 - 17:02 GMT

hmm, i just noticed the trap-door leading into the "river" on the bottom right of the first photo... wonder what flows from that thing?

jamie: 28th Jun 2006 - 21:13 GMT

i saw an old photo of that 'river' lately, and in 1955 it was still a real river *sigh*

jamie: umm recently.. i meant recently

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