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Yorkville: A Neighborhood Recalled

New York, NY - Laura - Thursday, December 7th, 2006 : goo

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I had to write a piece on my neighborhood this week for one of my graduate social work classes. I thought I'd share it here, since it has its fair share of citynoise...

I’m much taller than my mother, who’s a tiny thing and fits comfortably under my arm. It’s strange to think that once I clomped around the house in her high heels and now she fits so snugly under my wing, but I suppose that’s how life progresses.

My Grandpa died three years ago, and then Tommy passed last October. Tommy was Mom’s oldest and most loved brother. So after a recent long night with her at Dresner’s bar on 78th and York, mom wanted to take a stroll down memory lane- also known as 77th street.

“I’m not exactly sure which court it is, but I always like to think that it’s this one,” she sighed as she pointed toward the left-side handball court at John Jay Park. “I just like this one better.” We stood there, in silence, me clutching my tipsy mother and her holding back tears as she fantasized about the day her mother and father met. Grandma lived across the street from John Jay and Grandpa was a handball champ. Little did he know that Grandma was better. She challenged him to a game right there on that court and beat him fair and square. They always had a tense relationship and so while I don’t think it was love at first sight, handball at John Jay Park was the first story in their life together.

It’s a story I’ve heard many times. Grandpa was a Great Storyteller, and while everyone at the dinner table would fight to get themselves heard, no one spoke when he told stories. I could tell, even when I was just a child and he an Old Man, he was a charmer. Quiet and mostly reserved, Grandpa’s true nature came out through his stories; he never failed to captivate his dinner audience.

After he died, I went through old pictures of him with my grandmother. One showed them sitting together on a checkered cloth on Sheep Meadow. Grandma held her new baby, Mary, and Grandpa relaxed against her side. “Ah- Daddy had beautiful hair, Laura,” Grandma cooed. “He was so handsome.” She closed her eyes and napped a little, drifting off, I’m sure, back to her girlhood in Yorkville.

Yorkville: the cradle of our family history. Stretching from 72nd street (some say 59th) to 96th and encompassing everything from the East River to Third Avenue, Yorkville is a neighborhood unlike any other in Manhattan. I may be biased - I’ve never lived in any other neighborhood in Manhattan.

I grew up on 90th and Third in a building named after and standing on the old Jacob Ruppert Brewery property. The Brewery was founded in 1867 and closed in 1965.

In 1941, when my father was 13 and a freshman at Cardinal Hayes High School, he became acquainted with the brewery during his daily commute. At that time the high school was too small to hold all its students and freshmen had to attend classes at the Hayes Annex, on the top florr at the Our Lady of Good Counsel (OLGC) School building on 91st street.

The El at 89th St, 1954

He took the Third Avenue El from his South Bronx neighborhood, riding in between the cars the whole way down, and walked up Third Avenue to the brewery. There he’d walk through the Ruppert properties and find trouble where it could be found. He later liked to recollect the ‘bums’ who’d sit outside the brewery wall with mugs to collect the hops drippings. (Where as my mother read me bedtime stories out of fairy tale books, my father would entrance me with stories of gang rumbles, bar fights and romances. My dad, true to his Irish nature, is a professional B.S.’er whose stories blur the line between fact and fancy. I do believe his story about the hops is true, however.)

By the time my mother met my father at Barrymore’s in 1974, the brewery was long gone and the 22-acre space it once took up was renamed an urban renewal site and was populated by various community gardens and weedy underbrush. A year later, in 1975, the Ruppert Brewery Project began and the Conklin & Rossant architectural firm cooked up a plan to revitalize the neighborhood with a fortress-like structure that towered over the area. White and Willensky, in their Guide to New York City, say that “The density is immense and overwhelming. Given that millstone, the architects have handled an unfortunate program in a sophisticated manner." My parents were some of the first tenants to call that sophisticated project ‘Home.’

And then came Me. My birthday just passed and I look forward every year to my mother’s rendition of when I came into the world. Though I moan and groan about her long-winded explanations (from which I’ve inherited my own speaking style), a birthday simply wouldn’t be complete without that story. I’ll try to recount it briefly here. My mother and father had moved into a small one-bedroom apartment in Ruppert Towers and were not expecting to have children. I, determined to be brought into the world, foiled that plan. My parents, shocked at first, decided to uphold my wishes and have me. I’m glad they did. My mother, an amateur yogi, prepared for the natural birth through months of Lamaze and yoga techniques- and swimming (“don’t leave the swimming out, Laura! I swam everyday when I was pregnant with you and it was very important for your growth. You were practically born in water!” I wasn’t, but you see how important the water is to me. And to my mother. Anyway, back to the story). Everything went well until the last moment, when the cord was wrapped around my neck. My competent doctor cut the cord, told my mother to push and I came shooting into the world like a football (“Daddy! Tell me the story again about how I was born like a football!”).

After I was born, we three lived in our little apartment; Three Peas in a Pod as my Daddy likes to say. I was sent to school at OLGC, and attended classes in the same room that my father had some 45 years before me.

I grew up on hot dogs at the Papaya King on 86th street and refused to eat any hot dog substitution. I got my first pet, a parakeet I named Jennifer, from Woolworth’s; I learned to swim before I could walk at the Y and I frolicked in the sprinklers in Ruppert Park.

I spent an enormous amount of time at a bar called Il Giorno where Andy, the bartender, would always put 5 cherries in my Shirley Temple. On Saint Patrick’s Day, we’d all watch the Parade from Jim Buck’s apartment on Fifth Avenue. I was communed at the Church of Our Lady of Good Counsel and sang in the Children’s Choir there, where I was continuously reprimanded for chatting with boys.

I took pottery classes with my Dad at Rhinelander Children’s Center, and took dance at Manhattan Ballet. Mom and I bought groceries at Key Food and she would graciously let me push the cart back up the hill to our house. My mother still boasts of what a wonderful neighborhood Yorkville was to raise her child in- “Everything we needed was in the neighborhood. I never needed to take you elsewhere.”

The only thing it didn’t have was space. So in 1989, when I was finishing third grade, my mother and I moved into my grandparent’s summer home in a little town on the Jersey Shore called Bay Head. My dad would visit us on weekends and I was always jealous on Sunday nights when he would get to go home. Unlike OLGC, my new school was all white, uptight and cliquey. It was a miserable move for me and I longed for our tiny apartment and my friends who wore gold bracelets and pink barrettes in their braids. I’ve always known Yorkville to be home and didn’t feel at peace until I returned.

Ruppert Towers looked much different in January 2005, when I moved back into our apartment to start graduate school. Converted into a condominium in 2003, the building got a full face lift, complete with a new name for the neighborhood: The Upper East Side. What were once orange Formica walls had been replaced by rich wood and wainscoting. The building’s old recreation room is now a valet, and residents can pick up and drop off their dry cleaning at their convenience. The new residents, now apartment owners, have transformed the feel of the building. My apartment feels the same, but my house has clearly changed.

But it’s not just my house. Yorkville is in the process of a huge transformation. Once the city’s Little Germany, Yorkville retains little of what has historically set it apart from other neighborhoods. 86th street, formerly referred to as The German Broadway, still serves as the neighborhood’s main drag, but the restaurants that gave it its feel, like Die Lorelei, Cafe Mozart and the Gloria Palast are long gone. Gone too are the ballrooms and dance halls; when my mother moved back into Yorkville in the early 1970’s, these spaces for waltzing and polka dancing were slowly dying. She recalled recently what a wonderful time 86th street used to be.

Most recently, in October of 2006, an historic building on 86th and Lexington gave way to what is rumored by the local Community Board 8 to become a Bed Bath and Beyond with loading docks on 85th.

Similarly, a building on 86th and Third that came down last year will likely become a Home Depot with Whole Foods between Lexington and Third.

They will go well with the Banana Republic, Victoria’s Secret, Aldo and other various upscale boutiques already on the strip. Though I love to browse, and though the new buildings and banks increase the area’s value, I can’t help but wonder about the neighborhood’s roots and fantasize about the good old days, when Yorkville was simply that.

The saddest stroke came in June of 2005, when OLGC closed its doors after the Archdiocese of the City of New York declared that several Catholic schools throughout the city would be shut down. This past May, during an OLGC reunion of sorts, a group of recent ‘OL’ students, teachers, parents and alumni reminisced about the school and the years we spent there. John Norton, the school’s beloved 8th grade teacher of 15+ years said sadly, “It was such a wonderful school. We all truly enjoyed teaching there. And our kids are just…incredible.” Several of his recent students were there with us, and a particular 14 year old girl who’d shunned her own father not minutes before, broke into a huge grin. “We love you too, Mr. Norton.” And we do.

We concluded that day that the OLGC spirit has been passed down and among us, and we will not forget it. Nor will we forget the neighborhood where we found it- however many years ago that may have been. Yorkville may be ever changing, but its spirit is still here. Looking carefully among the neighborhood’s skyscrapers, you find folks like John Norton. And at John Jay Park, I think my Grandpa still plays the occasional game of handball.

All photographs are my own, except for the following:

John Jay Park- handball court on right. Available online at:
http://www.liveworkplayoutwest.com/yorkvillejohnjaypoolpics.htm

Third Ave El, 1954. available online at:
http://www.nycsubway.org/perl/show?26048

This article has been viewed 14298 times in the last 52 months

little ukraine: 7th Dec 2006 - 04:21 GMT

lovely story of a neighborhood, and so well-illustrated. thanks Laura. also, thanks for digging up that el-train pic.

Laura : 7th Dec 2006 - 05:12 GMT

Thank you, LU. I love that El photo. It was my favorite find for the project.

Marty: 11th Dec 2006 - 00:29 GMT

Come by the Yorkville web site for a trip down nostalgia lane. Find an old friend or just make a new friend.

http://www.liveworkplayoutwest.com/yorkvilleindex.htm

procyon: 13th Dec 2006 - 18:42 GMT

This was such a great read, and beautifully illustrated, too.

Ashley: 21st Dec 2006 - 12:50 GMT

i have been researching gangs for about a monthe now and i think it is very fasinating to learn about!!!!!!!!!

Ashley: 21st Dec 2006 - 12:51 GMT

i also think that hearing about other peoples life is really cool to. i like this article for some reason

Princess: 27th Dec 2006 - 14:29 GMT

just proves what great story tellers the Irish are

I could see you smiling as you wrote this....more pleae

Barbara: 8th Jan 2007 - 23:52 GMT

Thanks so much for the photo of the Third Ave El, 1954. I lived on Third between 90 & 91 St, and I can actually see the windows of our apartment in that photo. I was 4 yrs old at the time and would sit by the window every day waiting for my mom to get off the train from work. What wonderful memories this photo brought back!

K. Jacob Ruppert: 2nd Feb 2007 - 00:29 GMT

Thank you so much for a wonderful article and for the effort to better preserve my ancestors' contributions to New York and Yorkville from fading into the footnotes of a forgotten history. Save Yorkville History Now!

Joe: 10th Mar 2007 - 15:05 GMT

What contributions did ruppert brewery do for Yorkville besides suck it's blood & abandon it? They were the last of the robber barons. I grew up across for the brewery & it was a rat infested pig sty. The best contribution the brewery did for yorkville was leaving.

Joe: 10th Mar 2007 - 16:51 GMT

Oh and also I'd have to say yes this is a cute story but the buildings on 86th St. both on lex & third were nothing but broken down tenements which were demolished to make way for a better Yorkville. There's absolutely nothing wrong with progress or the many new wonderful stores you mentioned.The Yorkville of today is much better place then the one i grew up in in the 1950's to 1970's. More pricey yes but it takes money to improve things.

AG: 31st Mar 2007 - 01:24 GMT

Thank you for this wonderful article. I grew up in Yorkville, went to OLGC and wandered 86th street all the time ... I loved the photos - thank you for the walk down memory lane. Progress is good but, I agree, we've lost the character of the old Yorkville. Telling these stories is great. thanks!

Laura : 1st Apr 2007 - 18:50 GMT

Thanks for the comments, everyone. Joe- I hear you. I have only been around in the world for 25 years, but the quality of life in this neighborhood in just that short amount of time has improved drastically. I can only imagine how a person such as yourself with the sentiments you' ve already expressed must view the changes. It truly is remarkable how far we've come. That said-- I do miss the old ways and probably always will. Its easier for me to hang on to the good than to focus on the negative.

A correction: my father is an older person, but not as old as I have presented him here. He attended OL in 1951, not 41. Pictures of Cardinal Hayes used for this project but not posted here were taken in 1941. I'm terrible at math and got confused. My apologies.

Helen Kane Munro: 13th Apr 2007 - 06:13 GMT

ENJOYED PHOTOS AND COMMENTS. YES, YORKVILLE WAS A GREAT PLACE TO LIVE IN THE 50'S AND 60'S AND OLGC CHURCH AND SAINT JOSPEH'S SCHOOL OFFERED
A GREAT EDUCATION TO ALL.

Anthony: 24th Jun 2007 - 04:20 GMT

OLGC school was a great place...i was a student there...the school closed down when i was in sixth grade...The 8th grade teachers name was actually Mr. Naughton. He was a great man. I was very disappointed when the school had to close. Me and my friends still go around there and reminice about all the good times we had in OLGC.

Laurie: 31st Jul 2007 - 12:00 GMT

I loved reading your story.My Grandparents came from Yorkville 73rd and 2nd and 72nd.My Greatgrand father Joseph Hala owned a bar,Tavern or whatever it was called back then.They lived above the bar.I've been trying to track down Info on all of this because my Grandmother and other branches of the family have said that he worked for "Mayor Jimmy Walker".The business he owned was called Joe Hala Society at one time.I know he still owned it in the 30s because my Mom was there as a child.If anyone could help me or help give me ideas on how to trace this stuff or get any more info it would be greatly appreciated.My Email is lau56 at optonline.net.
This was a really nice story Lots of Luck to You and your Family.

Gary: 19th Aug 2007 - 00:57 GMT

I enjoyed this very much. Actually was going to email the 89 street photo to my sister, as it shows where we grew up on 90 th and Third. We lived there from the 50's to the mid 70's, and both attended Good Counsel.

It was a great place to grow up, and I'm glad I did. It's a large part of who I am. Thanks !

2o9 FiNeSt cHiiick : 1st Sep 2007 - 22:51 GMT

umm i was lookin for bloOdz and criiips i wasnt lookin for no Old ass shit w.e Nikka

Jarrod Lynn: 11th Sep 2007 - 03:53 GMT

I am putting a book together on Yorkville. Anyone who is interested in preserving the history of our neighborhood, please contact me at JDLJAG@GMAIL.COM

I am interested in speaking with anyone who would like to contribute in any way.

Jarrod Lynn

gus hassler : 3rd Oct 2007 - 00:23 GMT

I am now working as the master mechanic on the second ave subway.anyone have photos of brewery before and during demolition and would like to share them with me.my only connection to yorkville was the many bars I drank in.THanks bellagram183@aol.com

John: 12th Oct 2007 - 19:07 GMT

I grew up in Yorkville as a kid during the 1970s-1980s in "the projects". When I'm in town, I always think of Johnny and Matilda's Candy Store and Soda Shop. It was the center of my little world, near the corner of 92nd street and First Avenue, in the 1970's. They filmed TERRIBLE JOE MORAN in that tiny store in 1983. That film was James Cagney's last movie role. And I was there to see it happen!

http://www.super8monsters.com

Michael: 17th Oct 2007 - 15:23 GMT

I grew up in Yorkville in the 1950's. We lived on 90th St between First and York. I remember the fireboat station at the foot of 90th St just outside the fence at Schurz park. I also remember the Third ave El even though I was only 3 when they tore it down. We were parishoners at OLGC and we had to pass under it in order to get to church. There was a German deli on Fisrt Ave and 90th that we called "Cheese and Crackers" they always had a barrel of pickles outside the door and we used to get egg creams there when we were good. There was a place called the Soupbone where a number of my aunts held there bridal receptions. You had walk up an outside stairwell to the second story to get in. There was also a television studio on 90th whjere they made TV commercils. I used to eat lunch at the Rhinelander and had my picture taken there on Thanksgiving week in 1956 "attacking" a turkey that ran in the NY Post under the caption "boy meets bird". I remember smelling the yeast vats at the brewery while I attended OLGC on 91st St. Thank you so much for the site. I get very nostalgic sometimes and this trip back to Yorkville was very pleasant

Lulu: 6th Nov 2007 - 20:48 GMT

Thanks for the article. It will be three years this January since I moved to Yorkville (as a grad student as well) and I can't imagine living anywhere else in New York. We need more information on the history of this great neighborhood! To the person working on a book - count me in as a future book-buyer.

lynn ward: 12th Nov 2007 - 00:57 GMT

Grew up in Yorkville 72nd & 73rd on third, in the 40's & 50's. St.Jean the Baptiste, St. Catherine of Sienna and St. Vincents was our neighborhood schools. I'd love to see more "el" pictures in the 70's if any one has them. Your article was terrific

Pat Tracey: 13th Nov 2007 - 00:24 GMT

Hello Laura,
I am int he process of writing a mini-biography of my life growing up
in "da Bronx". By accident I found myself on this web-site. I am a graduate
of Cardinal Hayes and also went to "OLGC" as a freshman. Part of my story
is about those hot spring days sitting in class across from the brewery
getting a whiff of the hops and dozing off.

JOEY - The TPA Crew - ThePublic Animals: 27th Nov 2007 - 16:10 GMT

Thanks Laura, Yorkville and the whole nebulous vicinity nowadays was always one of my favorite areas of NYC when I was cruising around there in the early 70's. Thanks for giving me tons of good feelings from those photos!

Liam McCann: 7th Jan 2008 - 04:02 GMT

Reading your article was like going back home. I grew up on 87th ST. off of Lex and remember alot ot the locations you cited. I remember what the Rupert Towers development was like before any buildings were erected there. I remember these crudely landscaped plots with gardening. I remember the old A&P supermarket up on Third Ave. My Grandfather owned a bar on 93rd & 3rd called McCanns Cafe which became Sheehan's (Mike Sheehan of Fox news fame's father rented froom my Grandpa). I loved indulging in fast food on 86th St. at Burger King and Arthur Treacher's fish & chips. I used to love sneaking into movies at every theater in the neighborhood(I hope there is statute of limitations for this offense!). I went to LaSalle downtown for high school along with alot of guys from OLGC. I felt very safe in the neighborhood. I new kids in every part of Yorkville. I used to swin at John Jay in the summer. The transformation has been unbelievable. I felt like crying when I saw a Starbucks appear on the corner of my old block. One of your previous posts mention that the change in the area is for the better but I think what has been lost in the glitz is Yorkville's soul. Thanks for provoking the reminiscing. I hope I wasn't to maudlin!

Bob Watt: 10th Jan 2008 - 05:23 GMT

I'm English, but worked in NYC 1974-77. Although I never lived in Yorkville, some friends had an apartment in Ruppert Tower, and I visited them frequently. There was a store on 86th St., between Lex and 3rd, which sold wonderful chocolate and cheesecake. Also, there was a place called The Spaghetti Works at Lex and 85th, where I used to eat often.

jettr130: 16th Jan 2008 - 20:19 GMT

I"grew up"on the streets of Yorkville.I lived there from 1946-1957.My family first lived on 73rd and 74th sts. on 2nd Ave. My grandmother lived on 87th and 88th on York Ave. I went to just about every public school in the area:PS70,PS158,PS77 and PS30(We moved a lot!)When I was a teenager, I hung out in Kronks, 87th and York, or in Goodys', 87th and 1st. Went to St.Josephs'church,same block. Great memories, great time. The 50's-the best!

Jean: 15th Feb 2008 - 06:05 GMT

I grew up in yorkville .i lived in the 40's to the 50's. Went to St Monica's school I hung out in Teddy's ice cream parlor on york ave between 83rd & 84th & some bars I can't remember. Syre missed that old neighborhood

ed marecek: 9th Mar 2008 - 02:16 GMT

go yorkville pirates....grew up 76th second and third....east side house, john jay park[yea, we played softball] and association in the street, remember that?? sold shopping bags on 2nd ave....doubles and homers of the wall [77th street]...and stickball for two bucks a man...and my playground PS 70 [may it rest peacefully]...great place to grow up

Kevin: 25th Mar 2008 - 21:00 GMT

I would like to recommend a great new Yorkville book out by a Yorkville author,George Brennan,called Bats,Brats and Stats. It is about being among the last era of stickball players in Yorkville through the author's eyes. There are great recollections about many East 80's establishments during the 1970's and 1980's.

Dee McArdle: 27th Mar 2008 - 19:35 GMT

I was just going to mention that book by George Brennan. Kevin beat me to the punch. Bats, Brats and Stats is truly my favorite Yorkville based book.

Kathy : 24th Apr 2008 - 18:53 GMT

I loved your story. I was just online looking for pictures where I grew up 95 between 2nd and 3rd and I do remember when they closed Rupperts. I wasn't there for the building of the bigger buildings but I visit often. It looks a little different now. thanks again for your story.

Jim M 52: 11th May 2008 - 21:04 GMT

My brother Bill and I lived in 90thST between 1st & 2nd Ave from the early 50's untill the early 60's. The yorkville experience was the best
of our lives, my brother married "the girl next door " or actualy the girl upstairs. We still maintain lifelong frienships with a few of the
old croud . Now that I'm 70 this site is a marvolous way to re-visit the past.

Tish: 27th Jun 2008 - 00:37 GMT

Great article, I lived at 350 East 92 Street from 1957 to 1972. Graduted from OLGC, my mother also attended the same school and graduted. I just went to visit the old neigbhor when the crane fell on first Avenue. It was the best place to grow up and I have wonderful memories!

Joe F: 30th Jun 2008 - 09:57 GMT

Hi Laura !

RE: "my" 3rd Ave EL PHOTO !

I enjoyed reading your Yorkville memories as an ex 1940's-60's Yorkville-ite myself. It would have been appropriate and nice for me to also have been given ME credit for MY OWN PHOTO which you used in your writeup, photo taken at the E.89th St 3rd Ave EL uptown Local station platform, looking north, in March 1954. I also posted it at Marty's Old Yorkville Board, (where I also know you from) along with a few other EL photos from my collection of about 1000 + taken of the EL which I rode frequently in Manhattan & Bronx. Many of mine are credited at nycsubway.org site also. Anyway, thanks for sharing the nostalgic old neighborhood memories ! Regards - Joe F

lynnlindsayward@yahoo.com: 6th Jul 2008 - 14:47 GMT

Seems all the memories are from the 80's and 90's territory. Where are the 60's and 70's people that grew up in the 40's and 50's? Louies candy store.
Blochs drug store...the Chop House....the Praha...and the ice cream parlor on first avenue b'tween 73rd & 74th? Irelands 32...Perry's ice cream parlor..
Rikers....United Cigar?

maureen.downing@comcast.net: 27th Jul 2008 - 17:22 GMT

I lived on E. 89th St. between York and East End Avenues from 1940-1955 and have tons of great memories of coming of age in Yorkville during World War II & thru the 50's. My family (Mom,Dad brother,sister & I) lived in a reconverted tenement in a small apt. two flights up. I remember playing in the streets, on the stoop, jump-roping on the sidewalk, goin to Carl Schurz Park & the German Turn Verein near 86th St. for gymnastics after school. A great place to grow up!!I loved it!!

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My Grandpa died three years ago, and then Tommy passed last October. Tommy was Mom’s oldest and most loved brother. So after a recent long night with her at Dresner’s bar on 78th and York, mom wanted to take a stroll down memory lane- also known as 77th street. “I’m not exactly sure which court it is, but I always like to think that it’s this one,” she sighed as she pointed toward the left-side handball court at John Jay Park. “I just like this one better.” We stood there, in silence, me clutching my tipsy mother and her holding back tears as she fantasized about the day her mother and father met. Grandma lived across the street from John Jay and Grandpa was a handball champ. Little did he know that Grandma was better. She challenged him to a game right there on that court and beat him fair and square. They always had a tense relationship and so while I don’t think it was love at first sight, handball at John Jay Park was the first story in their life together. It’s a story I’ve heard many times. Grandpa was a Great Storyteller, and while everyone at the dinner table would fight to get themselves heard, no one spoke when he told stories. I could tell, even when I was just a child and he an Old Man, he was a charmer. Quiet and mostly reserved, Grandpa’s true nature came out through his stories; he never failed to captivate his dinner audience. After he died, I went through old pictures of him with my grandmother. One showed them sitting together on a checkered cloth on Sheep Meadow. Grandma held her new baby, Mary, and Grandpa relaxed against her side. “Ah- Daddy had beautiful hair, Laura,” Grandma cooed. “He was so handsome.” She closed her eyes and napped a little, drifting off, I’m sure, back to her girlhood in Yorkville. Yorkville: the cradle of our family history. Stretching from 72nd street (some say 59th) to 96th and encompassing everything from the East River to Third Avenue, Yorkville is a neighborhood unlike any other in Manhattan. I may be biased - I’ve never lived in any other neighborhood in Manhattan. I grew up on 90th and Third in a building named after and standing on the old Jacob Ruppert Brewery property. The Brewery was founded in 1867 and closed in 1965. In 1941, when my father was 13 and a freshman at Cardinal Hayes High School, he became acquainted with the brewery during his daily commute. At that time the high school was too small to hold all its students and freshmen had to attend classes at the Hayes Annex, on the top florr at the Our Lady of Good Counsel (OLGC) School building on 91st street. The El at 89th St, 1954 He took the Third Avenue El from his South Bronx neighborhood, riding in between the cars the whole way down, and walked up Third Avenue to the brewery. There he’d walk through the Ruppert properties and find trouble where it could be found. He later liked to recollect the ‘bums’ who’d sit outside the brewery wall with mugs to collect the hops drippings. (Where as my mother read me bedtime stories out of fairy tale books, my father would entrance me with stories of gang rumbles, bar fights and romances. My dad, true to his Irish nature, is a professional B.S.’er whose stories blur the line between fact and fancy. I do believe his story about the hops is true, however.) By the time my mother met my father at Barrymore’s in 1974, the brewery was long gone and the 22-acre space it once took up was renamed an urban renewal site and was populated by various community gardens and weedy underbrush. A year later, in 1975, the Ruppert Brewery Project began and the Conklin & Rossant architectural firm cooked up a plan to revitalize the neighborhood with a fortress-like structure that towered over the area. White and Willensky, in their Guide to New York City, say that “The density is immense and overwhelming. Given that millstone, the architects have handled an unfortunate program in a sophisticated manner." My parents were some of the first tenants to call that sophisticated project ‘Home.’ And then came Me. My birthday just passed and I look forward every year to my mother’s rendition of when I came into the world. Though I moan and groan about her long-winded explanations (from which I’ve inherited my own speaking style), a birthday simply wouldn’t be complete without that story. I’ll try to recount it briefly here. My mother and father had moved into a small one-bedroom apartment in Ruppert Towers and were not expecting to have children. I, determined to be brought into the world, foiled that plan. My parents, shocked at first, decided to uphold my wishes and have me. I’m glad they did. My mother, an amateur yogi, prepared for the natural birth through months of Lamaze and yoga techniques- and swimming (“don’t leave the swimming out, Laura! I swam everyday when I was pregnant with you and it was very important for your growth. You were practically born in water!” I wasn’t, but you see how important the water is to me. And to my mother. Anyway, back to the story). Everything went well until the last moment, when the cord was wrapped around my neck. My competent doctor cut the cord, told my mother to push and I came shooting into the world like a football (“Daddy! Tell me the story again about how I was born like a football!”). After I was born, we three lived in our little apartment; Three Peas in a Pod as my Daddy likes to say. I was sent to school at OLGC, and attended classes in the same room that my father had some 45 years before me. I grew up on hot dogs at the Papaya King on 86th street and refused to eat any hot dog substitution. I got my first pet, a parakeet I named Jennifer, from Woolworth’s; I learned to swim before I could walk at the Y and I frolicked in the sprinklers in Ruppert Park. I spent an enormous amount of time at a bar called Il Giorno where Andy, the bartender, would always put 5 cherries in my Shirley Temple. On Saint Patrick’s Day, we’d all watch the Parade from Jim Buck’s apartment on Fifth Avenue. I was communed at the Church of Our Lady of Good Counsel and sang in the Children’s Choir there, where I was continuously reprimanded for chatting with boys. I took pottery classes with my Dad at Rhinelander Children’s Center, and took dance at Manhattan Ballet. Mom and I bought groceries at Key Food and she would graciously let me push the cart back up the hill to our house. My mother still boasts of what a wonderful neighborhood Yorkville was to raise her child in- “Everything we needed was in the neighborhood. I never needed to take you elsewhere.” The only thing it didn’t have was space. So in 1989, when I was finishing third grade, my mother and I moved into my grandparent’s summer home in a little town on the Jersey Shore called Bay Head. My dad would visit us on weekends and I was always jealous on Sunday nights when he would get to go home. Unlike OLGC, my new school was all white, uptight and cliquey. It was a miserable move for me and I longed for our tiny apartment and my friends who wore gold bracelets and pink barrettes in their braids. I’ve always known Yorkville to be home and didn’t feel at peace until I returned. Ruppert Towers looked much different in January 2005, when I moved back into our apartment to start graduate school. Converted into a condominium in 2003, the building got a full face lift, complete with a new name for the neighborhood: The Upper East Side. What were once orange Formica walls had been replaced by rich wood and wainscoting. The building’s old recreation room is now a valet, and residents can pick up and drop off their dry cleaning at their convenience. The new residents, now apartment owners, have transformed the feel of the building. My apartment feels the same, but my house has clearly changed. But it’s not just my house. Yorkville is in the process of a huge transformation. Once the city’s Little Germany, Yorkville retains little of what has historically set it apart from other neighborhoods. 86th street, formerly referred to as The German Broadway, still serves as the neighborhood’s main drag, but the restaurants that gave it its feel, like Die Lorelei, Cafe Mozart and the Gloria Palast are long gone. Gone too are the ballrooms and dance halls; when my mother moved back into Yorkville in the early 1970’s, these spaces for waltzing and polka dancing were slowly dying. She recalled recently what a wonderful time 86th street used to be. Most recently, in October of 2006, an historic building on 86th and Lexington gave way to what is rumored by the local Community Board 8 to become a Bed Bath and Beyond with loading docks on 85th. Similarly, a building on 86th and Third that came down last year will likely become a Home Depot with Whole Foods between Lexington and Third. They will go well with the Banana Republic, Victoria’s Secret, Aldo and other various upscale boutiques already on the strip. Though I love to browse, and though the new buildings and banks increase the area’s value, I can’t help but wonder about the neighborhood’s roots and fantasize about the good old days, when Yorkville was simply that. The saddest stroke came in June of 2005, when OLGC closed its doors after the Archdiocese of the City of New York declared that several Catholic schools throughout the city would be shut down. This past May, during an OLGC reunion of sorts, a group of recent ‘OL’ students, teachers, parents and alumni reminisced about the school and the years we spent there. John Norton, the school’s beloved 8th grade teacher of 15+ years said sadly, “It was such a wonderful school. We all truly enjoyed teaching there. And our kids are just…incredible.” Several of his recent students were there with us, and a particular 14 year old girl who’d shunned her own father not minutes before, broke into a huge grin. “We love you too, Mr. Norton.” And we do. We concluded that day that the OLGC spirit has been passed down and among us, and we will not forget it. Nor will we forget the neighborhood where we found it- however many years ago that may have been. Yorkville may be ever changing, but its spirit is still here. Looking carefully among the neighborhood’s skyscrapers, you find folks like John Norton. And at John Jay Park, I think my Grandpa still plays the occasional game of handball. All photographs are my own, except for the following: John Jay Park- handball court on right. Available online at: http://www.liveworkplayoutwest.com/yorkvillejohnjaypoolpics.htm Third Ave El, 1954. available online at: http://www.nycsubway.org/perl/show?26048 This article has been viewed 14298 times in the last 52 months little ukraine: 7th Dec 2006 - 04:21 GMT lovely story of a neighborhood, and so well-illustrated. thanks Laura. also, thanks for digging up that el-train pic. Laura : 7th Dec 2006 - 05:12 GMT Thank you, LU. I love that El photo. It was my favorite find for the project. Marty: 11th Dec 2006 - 00:29 GMT Come by the Yorkville web site for a trip down nostalgia lane. Find an old friend or just make a new friend. http://www.liveworkplayoutwest.com/yorkvilleindex.htm procyon: 13th Dec 2006 - 18:42 GMT This was such a great read, and beautifully illustrated, too. Ashley: 21st Dec 2006 - 12:50 GMT i have been researching gangs for about a monthe now and i think it is very fasinating to learn about!!!!!!!!! Ashley: 21st Dec 2006 - 12:51 GMT i also think that hearing about other peoples life is really cool to. i like this article for some reason Princess: 27th Dec 2006 - 14:29 GMT just proves what great story tellers the Irish are I could see you smiling as you wrote this....more pleae Barbara: 8th Jan 2007 - 23:52 GMT Thanks so much for the photo of the Third Ave El, 1954. I lived on Third between 90 & 91 St, and I can actually see the windows of our apartment in that photo. I was 4 yrs old at the time and would sit by the window every day waiting for my mom to get off the train from work. What wonderful memories this photo brought back! K. Jacob Ruppert: 2nd Feb 2007 - 00:29 GMT Thank you so much for a wonderful article and for the effort to better preserve my ancestors' contributions to New York and Yorkville from fading into the footnotes of a forgotten history. Save Yorkville History Now! Joe: 10th Mar 2007 - 15:05 GMT What contributions did ruppert brewery do for Yorkville besides suck it's blood & abandon it? They were the last of the robber barons. I grew up across for the brewery & it was a rat infested pig sty. The best contribution the brewery did for yorkville was leaving. Joe: 10th Mar 2007 - 16:51 GMT Oh and also I'd have to say yes this is a cute story but the buildings on 86th St. both on lex & third were nothing but broken down tenements which were demolished to make way for a better Yorkville. There's absolutely nothing wrong with progress or the many new wonderful stores you mentioned.The Yorkville of today is much better place then the one i grew up in in the 1950's to 1970's. More pricey yes but it takes money to improve things. AG: 31st Mar 2007 - 01:24 GMT Thank you for this wonderful article. I grew up in Yorkville, went to OLGC and wandered 86th street all the time ... I loved the photos - thank you for the walk down memory lane. Progress is good but, I agree, we've lost the character of the old Yorkville. Telling these stories is great. thanks! Laura : 1st Apr 2007 - 18:50 GMT Thanks for the comments, everyone. Joe- I hear you. I have only been around in the world for 25 years, but the quality of life in this neighborhood in just that short amount of time has improved drastically. I can only imagine how a person such as yourself with the sentiments you' ve already expressed must view the changes. It truly is remarkable how far we've come. That said-- I do miss the old ways and probably always will. Its easier for me to hang on to the good than to focus on the negative. A correction: my father is an older person, but not as old as I have presented him here. He attended OL in 1951, not 41. Pictures of Cardinal Hayes used for this project but not posted here were taken in 1941. I'm terrible at math and got confused. My apologies. Helen Kane Munro: 13th Apr 2007 - 06:13 GMT ENJOYED PHOTOS AND COMMENTS. YES, YORKVILLE WAS A GREAT PLACE TO LIVE IN THE 50'S AND 60'S AND OLGC CHURCH AND SAINT JOSPEH'S SCHOOL OFFERED A GREAT EDUCATION TO ALL. Anthony: 24th Jun 2007 - 04:20 GMT OLGC school was a great place...i was a student there...the school closed down when i was in sixth grade...The 8th grade teachers name was actually Mr. Naughton. He was a great man. I was very disappointed when the school had to close. Me and my friends still go around there and reminice about all the good times we had in OLGC. Laurie: 31st Jul 2007 - 12:00 GMT I loved reading your story.My Grandparents came from Yorkville 73rd and 2nd and 72nd.My Greatgrand father Joseph Hala owned a bar,Tavern or whatever it was called back then.They lived above the bar.I've been trying to track down Info on all of this because my Grandmother and other branches of the family have said that he worked for "Mayor Jimmy Walker".The business he owned was called Joe Hala Society at one time.I know he still owned it in the 30s because my Mom was there as a child.If anyone could help me or help give me ideas on how to trace this stuff or get any more info it would be greatly appreciated.My Email is lau56 at optonline.net. This was a really nice story Lots of Luck to You and your Family. Gary: 19th Aug 2007 - 00:57 GMT I enjoyed this very much. Actually was going to email the 89 street photo to my sister, as it shows where we grew up on 90 th and Third. We lived there from the 50's to the mid 70's, and both attended Good Counsel. It was a great place to grow up, and I'm glad I did. It's a large part of who I am. Thanks ! 2o9 FiNeSt cHiiick : 1st Sep 2007 - 22:51 GMT umm i was lookin for bloOdz and criiips i wasnt lookin for no Old ass shit w.e Nikka Jarrod Lynn: 11th Sep 2007 - 03:53 GMT I am putting a book together on Yorkville. Anyone who is interested in preserving the history of our neighborhood, please contact me at JDLJAG@GMAIL.COM I am interested in speaking with anyone who would like to contribute in any way. Jarrod Lynn gus hassler : 3rd Oct 2007 - 00:23 GMT I am now working as the master mechanic on the second ave subway.anyone have photos of brewery before and during demolition and would like to share them with me.my only connection to yorkville was the many bars I drank in.THanks bellagram183@aol.com John: 12th Oct 2007 - 19:07 GMT I grew up in Yorkville as a kid during the 1970s-1980s in "the projects". When I'm in town, I always think of Johnny and Matilda's Candy Store and Soda Shop. It was the center of my little world, near the corner of 92nd street and First Avenue, in the 1970's. They filmed TERRIBLE JOE MORAN in that tiny store in 1983. That film was James Cagney's last movie role. And I was there to see it happen! http://www.super8monsters.com Michael: 17th Oct 2007 - 15:23 GMT I grew up in Yorkville in the 1950's. We lived on 90th St between First and York. I remember the fireboat station at the foot of 90th St just outside the fence at Schurz park. I also remember the Third ave El even though I was only 3 when they tore it down. We were parishoners at OLGC and we had to pass under it in order to get to church. There was a German deli on Fisrt Ave and 90th that we called "Cheese and Crackers" they always had a barrel of pickles outside the door and we used to get egg creams there when we were good. There was a place called the Soupbone where a number of my aunts held there bridal receptions. You had walk up an outside stairwell to the second story to get in. There was also a television studio on 90th whjere they made TV commercils. I used to eat lunch at the Rhinelander and had my picture taken there on Thanksgiving week in 1956 "attacking" a turkey that ran in the NY Post under the caption "boy meets bird". I remember smelling the yeast vats at the brewery while I attended OLGC on 91st St. Thank you so much for the site. I get very nostalgic sometimes and this trip back to Yorkville was very pleasant Lulu: 6th Nov 2007 - 20:48 GMT Thanks for the article. It will be three years this January since I moved to Yorkville (as a grad student as well) and I can't imagine living anywhere else in New York. We need more information on the history of this great neighborhood! To the person working on a book - count me in as a future book-buyer. lynn ward: 12th Nov 2007 - 00:57 GMT Grew up in Yorkville 72nd & 73rd on third, in the 40's & 50's. St.Jean the Baptiste, St. Catherine of Sienna and St. Vincents was our neighborhood schools. I'd love to see more "el" pictures in the 70's if any one has them. Your article was terrific Pat Tracey: 13th Nov 2007 - 00:24 GMT Hello Laura, I am int he process of writing a mini-biography of my life growing up in "da Bronx". By accident I found myself on this web-site. I am a graduate of Cardinal Hayes and also went to "OLGC" as a freshman. Part of my story is about those hot spring days sitting in class across from the brewery getting a whiff of the hops and dozing off. JOEY - The TPA Crew - ThePublic Animals: 27th Nov 2007 - 16:10 GMT Thanks Laura, Yorkville and the whole nebulous vicinity nowadays was always one of my favorite areas of NYC when I was cruising around there in the early 70's. Thanks for giving me tons of good feelings from those photos! Liam McCann: 7th Jan 2008 - 04:02 GMT Reading your article was like going back home. I grew up on 87th ST. off of Lex and remember alot ot the locations you cited. I remember what the Rupert Towers development was like before any buildings were erected there. I remember these crudely landscaped plots with gardening. I remember the old A&P supermarket up on Third Ave. My Grandfather owned a bar on 93rd & 3rd called McCanns Cafe which became Sheehan's (Mike Sheehan of Fox news fame's father rented froom my Grandpa). I loved indulging in fast food on 86th St. at Burger King and Arthur Treacher's fish & chips. I used to love sneaking into movies at every theater in the neighborhood(I hope there is statute of limitations for this offense!). I went to LaSalle downtown for high school along with alot of guys from OLGC. I felt very safe in the neighborhood. I new kids in every part of Yorkville. I used to swin at John Jay in the summer. The transformation has been unbelievable. I felt like crying when I saw a Starbucks appear on the corner of my old block. One of your previous posts mention that the change in the area is for the better but I think what has been lost in the glitz is Yorkville's soul. Thanks for provoking the reminiscing. I hope I wasn't to maudlin! Bob Watt: 10th Jan 2008 - 05:23 GMT I'm English, but worked in NYC 1974-77. Although I never lived in Yorkville, some friends had an apartment in Ruppert Tower, and I visited them frequently. There was a store on 86th St., between Lex and 3rd, which sold wonderful chocolate and cheesecake. Also, there was a place called The Spaghetti Works at Lex and 85th, where I used to eat often. jettr130: 16th Jan 2008 - 20:19 GMT I"grew up"on the streets of Yorkville.I lived there from 1946-1957.My family first lived on 73rd and 74th sts. on 2nd Ave. My grandmother lived on 87th and 88th on York Ave. I went to just about every public school in the area:PS70,PS158,PS77 and PS30(We moved a lot!)When I was a teenager, I hung out in Kronks, 87th and York, or in Goodys', 87th and 1st. Went to St.Josephs'church,same block. Great memories, great time. The 50's-the best! Jean: 15th Feb 2008 - 06:05 GMT I grew up in yorkville .i lived in the 40's to the 50's. Went to St Monica's school I hung out in Teddy's ice cream parlor on york ave between 83rd & 84th & some bars I can't remember. Syre missed that old neighborhood ed marecek: 9th Mar 2008 - 02:16 GMT go yorkville pirates....grew up 76th second and third....east side house, john jay park[yea, we played softball] and association in the street, remember that?? sold shopping bags on 2nd ave....doubles and homers of the wall [77th street]...and stickball for two bucks a man...and my playground PS 70 [may it rest peacefully]...great place to grow up Kevin: 25th Mar 2008 - 21:00 GMT I would like to recommend a great new Yorkville book out by a Yorkville author,George Brennan,called Bats,Brats and Stats. It is about being among the last era of stickball players in Yorkville through the author's eyes. There are great recollections about many East 80's establishments during the 1970's and 1980's. Dee McArdle: 27th Mar 2008 - 19:35 GMT I was just going to mention that book by George Brennan. Kevin beat me to the punch. Bats, Brats and Stats is truly my favorite Yorkville based book. Kathy : 24th Apr 2008 - 18:53 GMT I loved your story. I was just online looking for pictures where I grew up 95 between 2nd and 3rd and I do remember when they closed Rupperts. I wasn't there for the building of the bigger buildings but I visit often. It looks a little different now. thanks again for your story. Jim M 52: 11th May 2008 - 21:04 GMT My brother Bill and I lived in 90thST between 1st & 2nd Ave from the early 50's untill the early 60's. The yorkville experience was the best of our lives, my brother married "the girl next door " or actualy the girl upstairs. We still maintain lifelong frienships with a few of the old croud . Now that I'm 70 this site is a marvolous way to re-visit the past. Tish: 27th Jun 2008 - 00:37 GMT Great article, I lived at 350 East 92 Street from 1957 to 1972. Graduted from OLGC, my mother also attended the same school and graduted. I just went to visit the old neigbhor when the crane fell on first Avenue. It was the best place to grow up and I have wonderful memories! Joe F: 30th Jun 2008 - 09:57 GMT Hi Laura ! RE: "my" 3rd Ave EL PHOTO ! I enjoyed reading your Yorkville memories as an ex 1940's-60's Yorkville-ite myself. It would have been appropriate and nice for me to also have been given ME credit for MY OWN PHOTO which you used in your writeup, photo taken at the E.89th St 3rd Ave EL uptown Local station platform, looking north, in March 1954. I also posted it at Marty's Old Yorkville Board, (where I also know you from) along with a few other EL photos from my collection of about 1000 + taken of the EL which I rode frequently in Manhattan & Bronx. Many of mine are credited at nycsubway.org site also. Anyway, thanks for sharing the nostalgic old neighborhood memories ! Regards - Joe F lynnlindsayward@yahoo.com: 6th Jul 2008 - 14:47 GMT Seems all the memories are from the 80's and 90's territory. Where are the 60's and 70's people that grew up in the 40's and 50's? Louies candy store. Blochs drug store...the Chop House....the Praha...and the ice cream parlor on first avenue b'tween 73rd & 74th? Irelands 32...Perry's ice cream parlor.. Rikers....United Cigar? maureen.downing@comcast.net: 27th Jul 2008 - 17:22 GMT I lived on E. 89th St. between York and East End Avenues from 1940-1955 and have tons of great memories of coming of age in Yorkville during World War II & thru the 50's. My family (Mom,Dad brother,sister & I) lived in a reconverted tenement in a small apt. two flights up. I remember playing in the streets, on the stoop, jump-roping on the sidewalk, goin to Carl Schurz Park & the German Turn Verein near 86th St. for gymnastics after school. A great place to grow up!!I loved it!! Comment on this article.. Name: Type your comment here: Upload photos (opens in popup window) [previous] :: [next]	search citynoise.org 2005, let it rain let it drip let a blood kill a crip, bill cosby, jacob ruppert brewery, sushi bar, recent discussions Metro Cope2 from: METRO KD OTB DMC Albuquerque Graffiti Flood from: Relapsed Scenes from a Little Town Called Jacksonville from: Jones Bushwick 77: The Casusos of Harman St. from: upfromflames Post a Picture of Directly Outside Your Window from: CE August 07 2008 Toronto from: hool $95 For a Bowl of Soup? from: EvilGentleman Bishop Castle: Another Self-Made Masterpiece from: Jim Bishop Feeling Sixy? from: Peter The Top 10 Canadian Skylines from: CE from the archives CDB Packaging Random guy taping up inner city alley. Melbourne, Australia. 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Yorkville: A Neighborhood Recalled

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little ukraine: 7th Dec 2006 - 04:21 GMT

Laura : 7th Dec 2006 - 05:12 GMT

Marty: 11th Dec 2006 - 00:29 GMT

procyon: 13th Dec 2006 - 18:42 GMT

Ashley: 21st Dec 2006 - 12:50 GMT

Ashley: 21st Dec 2006 - 12:51 GMT

Princess: 27th Dec 2006 - 14:29 GMT

Barbara: 8th Jan 2007 - 23:52 GMT

K. Jacob Ruppert: 2nd Feb 2007 - 00:29 GMT

Joe: 10th Mar 2007 - 15:05 GMT

Joe: 10th Mar 2007 - 16:51 GMT

AG: 31st Mar 2007 - 01:24 GMT

Laura : 1st Apr 2007 - 18:50 GMT

Helen Kane Munro: 13th Apr 2007 - 06:13 GMT

Anthony: 24th Jun 2007 - 04:20 GMT

Laurie: 31st Jul 2007 - 12:00 GMT

Gary: 19th Aug 2007 - 00:57 GMT

2o9 FiNeSt cHiiick : 1st Sep 2007 - 22:51 GMT

Jarrod Lynn: 11th Sep 2007 - 03:53 GMT

gus hassler : 3rd Oct 2007 - 00:23 GMT

John: 12th Oct 2007 - 19:07 GMT

Michael: 17th Oct 2007 - 15:23 GMT

Lulu: 6th Nov 2007 - 20:48 GMT

lynn ward: 12th Nov 2007 - 00:57 GMT

Pat Tracey: 13th Nov 2007 - 00:24 GMT

JOEY - The TPA Crew - ThePublic Animals: 27th Nov 2007 - 16:10 GMT

Liam McCann: 7th Jan 2008 - 04:02 GMT

Bob Watt: 10th Jan 2008 - 05:23 GMT

jettr130: 16th Jan 2008 - 20:19 GMT

Jean: 15th Feb 2008 - 06:05 GMT

ed marecek: 9th Mar 2008 - 02:16 GMT

Kevin: 25th Mar 2008 - 21:00 GMT

Dee McArdle: 27th Mar 2008 - 19:35 GMT

Kathy : 24th Apr 2008 - 18:53 GMT

Jim M 52: 11th May 2008 - 21:04 GMT

Tish: 27th Jun 2008 - 00:37 GMT

Joe F: 30th Jun 2008 - 09:57 GMT

lynnlindsayward@yahoo.com: 6th Jul 2008 - 14:47 GMT

maureen.downing@comcast.net: 27th Jul 2008 - 17:22 GMT

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