Tokyo Living

Tokyo, Japan - jeeff - Thursday, May 12th, 2005 : goo

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oh, why hello there! funny thing running into you around here.

why yes, i just happen to live right around the corner.

that's right, right here in asakusa. it's such an interesting place to live, such a nitty gritty urban atmosphere, quite different from the neon lights and ultra-modern buildings of the rest of tokyo. and more real, i'd venture. the locals call it shitamachi which literally means "downtown." it was the old merchant quarter of edo city, where the pleasure quarters and kabuki theatres were first born.

true, now it's kind of overrun with tourists, but only on the main streets. up in north asakusa you could walk for days and never see a single white face or pair of khaki shorts. that's where the yakuza keep all their brothels even now. in the old days it was known as the sanya or "place of 3," in reference to the 3 bad smells - a crematorium, an oil refinery, and.. something else. i can't remember. there was also the imperial execution grounds, on the far side of the "bridge of tears."

yes, my building is right across from the old amusement park - hanayashiki. that's right, it's kind of like tokyo's coney island. oh, i don't mind the noise - at least it's happy noise. the old wooden rollercoaster goes right by outside my window. it's over 100 years old. oh, you'd like to see my place? really? well, if it wouldn't be terribly boring, yes, sure, lets. i'll give you a tour of the old place. my very humble abode, if i do say myself... you'll have to excuse the mess.

that's it, up ahead. one of the last post-war structures left standing. quite rickety in earthquakes. i must say i'm sad that it is slated for demolition some time soon.

here we are. yes, please leave your shoes at the door. the hallway is a frightful mess, isn't it? please, just squeeze in past the gombakko - "shoebox."

here are the housekeeping supplies provided by my landlord. and the pink phone is a common type of payphone here. it reminds me of a whale's belly.

how embarassing, i've forgotten to wash the dishes again. i really wasn't expecting company, you see. yes, the windows are all frosted. otherwise there would be no privacy at all.

that's right, a real japanese-style washroom! i know, westerners have a strong reaction to these squat toilets, but when you consider that you never touch the toilet itself, it is much more hygienic. squatting is a natural position here in japanese society. sometimes you'll see a person squatting at the street corner as they wait for something, or talk on their cell phone. it keeps the legs limber.

yes, here's my futon. really quite comfortable once one gets used to sleeping on the floor. unfortunately they're prone to mildew along the bottom, so you must hang them out twice a week. on sunny afternoons the whole neighbourhood is transformed by a drapery of futons hanging from every balcony and railing.

well, thanks so much for stopping by. i'll see you again.

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elaine: i love this. you done a good thing here!

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